Stop and smell the coffee
Prime Central London Coffee got sexy when Anthony Head and Sharon Maughan did “will-they-won’t-they” Nescafe Gold Blend commercials in the Eighties. In one ad, Sharon borrows coffee for a dinner party from her dishy new neighbour, Anthony, who replies haughtily: “Will Gold Blend be too good for your guests? It’s a sophisticated coffee.”
Then in 2006, debonaire George Clooney was appointed brand ambassador for new-fangled coffee capsules you popped into a glossy gadget. His smooth catchphrase? “Nespresso – what else?” Purchasers of London penthouses insisted on Nespresso machines being included in sales. And a new coffee culture was born.
The Rose & Partners’ team believes that coffee’s the breakfast of champions. Simon Rose favours a creamy cappuccino with a dash of agave, Tom Tangney goes for latte – sometimes with an extra shot. And Zoë Rose likes her coffee skinny and frothy.
Zoë likes coffeehouses that “feel authentic and where staff prepare with care”. Her greatest weakness is great coffee accompanied by “a pain aux raisins to die for” at The Good Life Eatery on Sloane Avenue. She’s also a fan of Baker & Spice on Elizabeth Street, renowned for steaming Cortado and pistachio chocolate croissants.
Simon likes hanging out at CPRESS, on Fulham Road, one of the first places to create cold-pressed juices and power balls (he’s partial to one that’s the healthy equivalent of chocolate mousse). “The guys have turned tending their coffee machine into an art form, a bit like buffing a Ferrari,” he says.
Other recommendations from Simon include The Bluebird on the King’s Road – “a great place to sit outside and watch the world go by”; and the jovial atmosphere at The Roasting Party on Pavilion Road, with “a lot of banter from servers who make you smile.”
Queues of aficionados going for their caffeine hits at Carpo in Knightsbridge says it all, points out Simon. He also rates Chucs Café on Old Brompton Road with Italian fare – think paninis and lavender panna cotta. And if you fancy a touch of Paris, look no further than Colbert on Sloane Square – open all day, from morning Café Cremes to evening Vesper Martinis.
According to Tom Tangney, Stratford Road’s Fait Maison has gorgeous macarons, fruit scones and Middle Eastern dishes, such as Shakshuka, to go with your coffee.
“The place to be seen in Kensington is Café Nouvelle on Abingdon Road – a small café with outdoor seating,” explains Tom, who suggests sampling an Italian pastry with your cappuccino, and buying balsamic vinegar and truffle mustard to take home for later.
For a pick-me-up, Tom stops by Perky Blenders on Kensington High Street, but for the full-blown French experience he opts for Montparnasse Café in Thackeray Street. It doesn’t get more Francaise than this in London: marble-topped tables, Croque Monsieur and authentic coffee.
“The main message is that small Indies provide coffee with taste and bite to it, made from beans ground just before the barista makes your coffee,” Tom adds. However, he thinks we shouldn’t rule out some chains, like Gail’s, that make an effort to maintain standards.
Over on Holland Park Avenue, new mash-up concept store, Supermarket of Dreams, might be the future. In the mornings, it sells high-end flat whites and croissants to passing locals walking well-groomed dogs. While there, they can also acquire steaks from butcher HG Walter, Natoora vegetables, Notting Hill Fish Shop produce, Ottolenghi spices – and even blades from the Japanese Knife Company. Coffee – and everything associated with it – is now a language in itself; one all Londoners are eager to speak.
by Cheryl Markosky